HOW NICOLA BACCHILEGA BECAME ITALY'S HOTTEST EMERGING BRAND
From sculpture to fashion, we discussed with Nicola his journey and how his brand Defaïence became a sought-after name among celebrity stylists. Debuted in 2021, and quickly reached the top. Frequent clients include Dua Lipa, Bella Hadid, and Taylor Swift. His latest collection went viral when Kylie Jenner wore the brand's mini white dress. "Luxury is a combination of craftsmanship and technology" says Nicola, scroll to read more.
1. Ciao Nicola! I’ve known you for some time, but could you briefly introduce yourself to our readers?
Hello Balcone readers! My name is Nicola Bacchilega, and I am the creative director and founder of DEFAÏENCE.
2. What is all about Defaïence? What is the story?
Everything started during the pandemic when I found myself free and able to think about and pursue what I truly wanted to do. I mustered the courage to manifest my vision, connecting my heritage in ceramics with future innovation. In 2021, I established DEFAÏENCE with the intention of creating a style and movement that represents the contemporary and future generations, all while embracing a conscious mindset. I firmly believe that craftsmanship and technology share common ground, which prompted me to commence with my own sculptures and embark on a journey of research and connection.
3. Famous celebs like Shakira, Rosalia and Bella Hadid have worn Defaïence. How did these collabs happen?
I initially began by gifting some of my contacts, thanks to my prior experience working with celebrities at Versace and the assistance of my friend Giulia Baggini, who handles my PR in LA. The story with Bella is quite amusing. I was in Paris for fashion week when she spotted my hoops through a stylist friend on set. She instantly fell in love with them and described them as iconic. Someone informed me that she was headed to the Coperni after-party at Cafe Le Rouge, and somehow, I managed to get in and personally handed her a pair, requesting a photo. She's truly charming and down-to-earth. Everything unfolded rapidly, but I was overjoyed to have a conversation with her and witness her wearing DEFAÏENCE while dancing together. :)
3. You worked previously at Versace and the iconic green dress worn by J.Lo. Could you tell us more about your background and how it impacted your work and vision?My background is in sculpture, but I've always had a penchant for creating art related to the human form, making the transition to fashion feel quite organic. After graduating, I made the decision to relocate to London, a city brimming with designers I deeply admire. I initially worked in the hospitality industry and secured an internship at a fashion house. I honed my craft there and began crafting pieces at home. Five years into my London journey, I was scouted and found myself suddenly assisting Luigi Massi, the head of Atelier Versace. Luigi had been with Versace for as long as Gianni and Donatella and imparted invaluable knowledge on creating exquisite gowns. We worked tirelessly, day and night. This experience swiftly propelled me into fitting celebrities, primarily in the US, and accompanying them from inception to the red carpet. Crafting J.Lo's dress was the crowning achievement, and it's a memory I'll forever cherish. To me, Versace felt more like a school where I absorbed a wealth of knowledge.
Nicolo, Jennifer Lopez and Donatella Versace, at the fitting.
Nicolo, Jennifer Lopez and Donatella Versace, at the fitting.
Nicolo, Jennifer Lopez at the fitting in Versace.
Nicolo, Jennifer Lopez at the fitting in Versace.
Nicolo is on the rehersal at Versace. Jennifer Lopez at the front.
Nicolo is on the rehersal at Versace. Jennifer Lopez at the front.
4. The jewelry is one of your signature. The earrings especially look magnificent, and they are pretty lightweight. How did your journey in 3D begin?
I initiated my exploration of 3D technology by revisiting a piece I had created in ceramic. It was a full-body sculpture crafted from gold-glazed ceramic, symbolizing divinization. However, it was incredibly heavy. This led me to contemplate how I could seamlessly blend craftsmanship, my artistic vision, and technology. Serendipitously, I crossed paths with someone skilled in 3D art, and we embarked on a collaboration that resulted in the first sample printed in resin. It took me two years to arrive at where I am today, marking a long but immensely rewarding journey.
5. What is your relation with sustainability? Do you see it as part of your brand’s journey in the future? Absolutely, yes! Sustainability is a fundamental aspect of my brand. I am committed to creating consciously designed pieces that stand the test of time, with a focus on zero-waste cuts in most of my designs. Equally important to me is collaborating with local factories and supporting small businesses. Research and development (R&D) also hold a prominent place in my business plan.
6. Can you describe Defaïence with three words?
Chic, Sensual, Futuristic!
7. Italy holds a significant place in the world of fashion. How does your brand's connection to Italy influence your designs, and do you believe the "made in Italy" factor still holds importance?
Of course, the made-in-Italy factor is really important to me, especially when it comes to producing limited series pieces or artisanal designs, but I have to say I am open to producing outside Italy. In Europe, there are many countries that produce beautifully crafted products. For me, it is important to create something beautiful of quality without relating it to the “Made in” factor; everything made is made in DEFAÏENCE.
8.What is your relation with sustainability? Do you see it as part of your brand’s journey in the future?
Absolutely, yes! Sustainability is a fundamental aspect of my brand. I am committed to creating consciously designed pieces that stand the test of time, with a focus on zero-waste cuts in most of my designs. Equally important to me is collaborating with local factories and supporting small businesses. Research and development (R&D) also hold a prominent place in my business plan.
9. How would you define luxury?
Luxury transcends mere high prices; it's a combination of craftsmanship and technology. It revolves around crafting timeless pieces that continuously evolve with new materials and updates, ensuring they remain perfect and relevant over time.
10. What led you to select the vibrant colors used in your designs? Were there any specific influences or factors that guided your choice of these colors?
To be honest, my inspiration for these colors came from a rainy day I experienced in London. I was on a rooftop with my dear friend, who is also a photographer I often collaborate with. We were preparing the studio, covering the roof with a black blanket, when suddenly, despite the rain, the sun emerged, casting two magnificent rainbows ! It was a reminder of the incredible beauty of nature, a reminder that we should respect it more.
11. As an emerging brand, what are the most rewarding aspects of your journey so far, and what challenges have you encountered along the way?
The most rewarding aspect is when I receive beautiful comments and feedback from customers. To me, it's all about how my designs make people feel; I aim to instill confidence, empowerment, and comfort. Recently, I started selling my pieces at H. Lorenzo, a store I've always aspired to be a part of since I began creating. Having my designs sell out as soon as they're released there feels like a dream come true. However, as mentioned earlier, I faced a significant setback when I lost everything, including my work and equipment, due to the flood that struck my hometown, Faenza, where the brand is currently based. While this experience was difficult to accept, it also served as a profound source of inspiration. In fact, I'm in the process of relaunching my ready-to-wear collection, the ANQĀ Collection, which holds deep personal significance. I can't wait to share it with the world. The future is so exciting!
12. Your favorite 3 products?
Argan oil, my comfy flip flop, and my DEFAÏENCE EAR CUFF, of course!
13. What is your favorite saying in Italian? And why?
"A goccia a goccia si scava la roccia!" (drop by drop water can carve through rock) I believe in this saying because it emphasizes that things take time, especially when it comes to pursuing one's dreams. To achieve your goals, you must remain focused, patient, and conscious. Everything unfolds at the right time, and it's crucial to maintain belief in your journey. Being open and receptive plays a significant role. After all, Rome wasn't built in a day; similarly, building your dreams step by step is more fulfilling and meaningful.
14. Throughout your experience in the fashion industry, what has been the most significant lesson you've learned so far?
It’s a bit cheeky to say, but I’ll be honest. What I have learned is when people around you or colleagues start talking bad about you, it often means you're doing something right!
15. What are your thoughts on the designer's role within the brand? How would you like to be remembered as a designer?
Initially, being the designer of the brand was a dream, but I soon found myself managing and directing the team, which I absolutely love. My main objective is to create beautiful shapes and empower those who wear DEFAÏENCE. I aspire to be remembered as a designer who not only creates captivating designs but also makes people feel good about themselves and values their self-worth.
16. What aspect of your work brings you the most excitement and fulfillment?
I find the most excitement and fulfillment when we receive last-minute calls for custom pieces for celebrities. My background in dressing celebrities has taught me how to handle and prepare for quick turnarounds and fast decision-making. I thrive on a bit of drama and perform better under pressure. When we see our work on the red carpet, both I and the team feel a profound sense of accomplishment, knowing that we've done a good job!
17. As you know, Balcone is all about supporting and discovering emerging fashion brands and independent talents. How does it feel for you to be a part of the Balcone world and community?
Being a part of Balcone is incredibly flattering to me. Just a few years since I launched the brand, I never would have imagined I'd be here today. As an emerging talent, the journey can be challenging, but it's also incredibly rewarding to be recognized. Support is paramount, and I am deeply grateful to all the fans who champion my brand, my vision, and my aesthetic.
